1 Ocean waves.
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Any water surface that is disturbed by wind will develop waves (1). As with all waves, the wave speed v, frequency f and wavelength λ are interrelated (2). Water waves can range from ripples with amplitudes of a few mm and wavelengths less than 1 cm to gigantic waves in open seas. The highest reliably measured ocean wave, with an amplitude of 17 m, was recorded in 1933. Its period was 14.8 s, corresponding to a frequency of 0.067 Hz, and its velocity was estimated as 23ms–1, giving a wavelength of 342 m (3).
In shallow water, wave speed depends on depth. If the water depth d is less than λ/20, all waves travel at the same speed and
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